Osaka

To most Nara JETs, Osaka means something along the lines of “party” or “food” or “shopping.” If you think it’s a place of great urban beauty and you just love to go there and admire the architecture, you probably need to have your head examined. On the other hand, if you absolutely hate it, then it’s a good thing you ended up in Nara. Osaka is not supposed to be beautiful, it’s just there, and because we’re here, in Nara (and, by implication, not there, in Osaka) we can appreciate what there is to offer without having to put up with it on a daily basis. Pretty good arrangement, eh?

The first thing you should notice about maps of Osaka is a big circle. This is the JR Loop Line, which goes around and around, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The big shopping/dining/entertainment centers are all located where train lines converge: Umeda is the nexus of JR, Hanshin, and Hankyuu lines, and Namba is at the confluence of the JR, Kintetsu and Nankai lines. A number of subway lines connect these huge stations with the rest of Osaka

There are innumerable places to wine and dine in Osaka, which is famed for its variety of restaurants. In fact, Osaka is known throughout Japan for “kui-daore,” which means “bringing financial ruin upon oneself by extravagance in food,” or literally “eat and fall down.” To be honest, we can’t even begin to give you an exhaustive list of places to go. A good source of info is Kansai Time Out—the ads often have maps to get you there.

Around Osaka

Rather than give you an exhaustive list of places, we thought it would be better to give you a sort of walking tour that will give you a sense of place and where the major landmarks are located.

Namba

Namba is in the middle of the Loop Line, and is the place where the JR, Kintetsu, and Nankai lines meet, as well as several subway lines. There are several underground shopping areas, all connected by passageways.

Follow the signs to the Nankai line, and as you ride up the escalators you will see the Namba Rocket, a very popular meeting place. If you continue south instead of going up the escalators, you will eventually end up outside. In front of the baseball stadium (no longer used as such) is the Hard Rock Cafe. Go east a block and you enter the Nipponbashi electronics district.

Back up at the Kintetsu end of the station (north), take exit #14, and you’ll be right next to Midosuji Ave., near the best late-night ramen stand in the world.

Go north along Midosuji Ave, to the blue-and-white tiled building and turn right. You’re now walking on Dotombori, a famous hangout for street performers and guys scamming the chicks. It’s still a pretty happening place, as you can see by the crowds. Turn left at the corner, cross the bridge and the imposing black-and-chrome Kirin Plaza (featured in the movie “Black Rain”) is on your right, with a really weird Haagen-Daz on the left.

Looking north from Kirin Plaza, you’ll see the Shinsaibashi covered shopping arcade (go there on a Sunday and take that picture of the sea of faces as far as you can see). Go north and you’ll eventually come across Sogo and Daimaru. At the first cross-street, you’ll see Athens bookstore on the left and a TCBY yogurt shop to the right. Go west (left) and you’ll end up in America Mura.

America Mura (“America Town”) is not actually America but somebody’s twisted impression of it, is popular with young Japanese for its nightclubs, bars and discos. Walking west from Athens bookstore, you will cross Midosuji Ave. Continue on and you will see Big Step on your right—a multi-level shopping paradise with a number of interesting shops. There is a Disney shop at street level, and should be easy to spot. A little further down the street is Triangle Park, another meeting point and hang-out spot. South of Triangle Park (turn left) you’ll find Tower Records, which boasts one of the best collections of CDs in Kansai, and English pop culture magazines at half the price of any bookstore. On the way, look for the Garden and King Kong sign on your left. Garden (2F) specializes in world music, and King Kong (5F) is a used-CD shop (a good antidote for the shock caused by Japanese CD prices).

For the more sophisticated palate, check out Europe Mura district, with high-class boutiques and art galleries. From Athens bookstore, go east (away from America-mura).

At the north end of Shinsaibashi (also accessible by subway Midosuji line, Shinsaibashi station) are Shakey’s Pizza (11:00am-2:00pm ¥600 all-you-can-eat lunch special) and Sony Tower (which displays all the latest gadgets and deserves a look). Across from Sony Tower is the Parco building, which has a collection of trendy shops, including a bookshop featuring English magazines, art books, etc., and Club Quattro which hosts a constant stream of great bands. West of Parco and across Midosuji Ave. is OPA, yet another trendy department store building, but with a Kinokuniya bookstore (small English corner) and an HMV records outlet.

Nipponbashi / Den-Den Town

South-east of Namba is Nippombashi, famous for it’s multitude of electronics stores—the Akihabara of Kansai! Take exit #5 or #10 from Nippombashi station, then south (Joshin and Ninomiya are the electronics retail giants, so if you see these signs you’re going in the right direction). You can also get there from Namba—from the Nankai station, go east, down the arcade, past the Hanshin Tigers store (look for yellow and black stripes), and turn right. You will go through an area called Dogu-suji (“tool street”) with lots of stores selling tools, uniforms, restaurant equipment, and the plastic food you see in restaurant windows, and then wind up in the western part of Nipponbashi.

Umeda / Osaka

The area known as Umeda was formed by the confluence of JR, Hankyu and Hanshin train lines, and is fed by several subway lines as well (including our friend the Midosuji). It’s really delightful place to get lost, so embrace the chaos and enjoy. GARE/Great Outdoors —located (according to some perverse logic) under the tracks next to the central exit of JR Osaka Station has the Body Shop, the Nature Company, Timberland, Benneton and the usual assortment of specialty stores. Just north of the central exit (to your left, coming out of the ticket gate) is a strange indoor tree construction that people meet by.

The Midosuji Exit (a.k.a. “east exit”) deposits one near the Midosuji subway line. Go left once you get out of the ticket gates, outside, and you have the choice of going underground to the subway station or across a traffic bridge. Either way, if you keep going straight (east) you’ll end up in the Hankyu Umeda station. By the escalators is Big Man, the video screen meeting place, and Kinokuniya bookstore. North of Kinokuniya is a shopping center under the Hankyu tracks, called Kappa Yokocho. Some interesting stuff here—clothing and entertainment stuff, a section of used bookstores, then restaurants. Go out to the right (east) and go north (away from the station) along the street which runs along the tracks, and after a few blocks you’ll see Subway Sandwiches (it’s pretty small and hard to spot).

The Loft — Near Umeda station, a post-modern warehouse of almost every household item you might want to buy, including the kitchen sink! Worth a look, but there are cheaper alternatives… While it’s a great place to get ideas, the experienced shopper knows to research cheaper department stores for the actual purchase.

If you’re approaching Umeda on the Loop Line going clockwise, between Fukushima Sta. and Osaka Sta., look out the train window to the right, and you’ll see a building with a highway going right through the middle (which came first…?). Look out to the left and you’ll see the Sky Building, the strange-looking U-shaped one. You can go to the top for a fee-it’s supposed to be pretty striking.

Osaka Castle Park (Osaka-jo Koen)

Osaka’s largest surrounds Osaka Castle, which dominates the skyline (from inside the park, anyway). A beautiful place to walk around, especially when the plum trees and cherry trees are blooming. The castle is the one in which James Clavell’s novel Shogun revolves around. Rebuilt after the war, it is basically a castle-shaped concrete shell, but there’s a good view from the top. Info and explanations are available in English. Take the Loop Line to Osaka-jo Koen station, and the castle is about a 10min walk.

Looking north, you’ll find Osaka Business Park (OBP), easily identified by its twin towers. Here you’ll find many upscale shops and restaurants. On the north side of the park is Panasonic Center, the company’s hands-on, high-tech collection of communications equipment. While you’re here, you can have a rubber stamp made with an image of your face! (Bring a nice clear picture of yourself). Open ‘till 6pm. There is also a building called IMP, which has numerous eateries and shops.

Osaka Peace Museum

A must see. It gives a very realistic account of the Japanese behavior during WWII—there was a large controversy over whether this museum should be opened because much of what is in the museum is not in the government-approved school texts. To get there, you can walk from Osaka park (it’s on the southern edge) or take the JR loop line to Morinomiya Station. The museum is up the hill on your right (towards the center of the loop). It is across the street from a baseball stadium.

Osaka Tempozan Harbor & Aquarium

A good place to wander around. The aquarium (one of the world’s largest–even has whale sharks!!) and nearby shopping center (designed by the same architect who did Faneuil Hall Quincy Market in Boston) are worth a look, though a little pricey. Several large sailing boats dock here regularly, and are often open to public viewing. You can also take a ride on the “Santa Maria” or the “Aqua Liner Naniwa.” Take Chuo line (subway) to Osaka-ko station.

Information

Osaka International House

This is like an Osaka NIFS, but several times as large and definitely worth a visit. Stocked with English-language books, magazines, newspapers, videos, maps and pamphlets on wide range of topics (sorry, can’t check them out). Also features CNN Live in a special viewing room. Open daily from 9 to 9, except New Year holiday.

For a more complete guide to Osaka, one which will take you off the beaten paths described above, look for David M. Dunfield’s Exploring Osaka.