Kyoto

Introduction

It’s the rarest of rare places in Japan: In the face of modernity, Kyoto somehow retains its uniquely Japanese charm and beauty. Volumes have been written on this subject, but for starters, it’s best to buy a good guide book. The Lonely Planet is good, but the encyclapedic Japan Inside Out is even better. Also, get the excellent Must See In Kyoto guide—an illustrated little blue book by JTB; it can be picked up in any English bookstore (it’s in the same series as other classics such as A Look Into Japan, Living Japanese Style and A Look Into Tokyo).

Coffee Shops

  • G10 Old-Inn Coffee Shop (2nd floor). Coffee shop with a view of Kanogawa. Huge cakes. Coffee and cake set is bout Y750.

  • S3 (name unknown). Open-air coffee shop. Incredible espresso.

Food

  • G3 Tengu (Basement-sign is a red mask with a long nose). Chain restaurant “izakaya” style. Very popular with young peole/business men after work. Always crowded. Varied menu (in Japanese). Quite cheap expcet to pay Y2,000-Y4,000 for food and beers, depending on how much you eat/drink. Very efficient service.

  • G4 Meiji-ya (foreign food shop). Various foreign foods, wines, etc. to giveyou a “wee taste of home”. Rather expensive, however good for a special treat.

  • G7 Capricciosa (2nd floor). Italian restaurant with monster proportions. Relatively cheap and tasty.

  • G8 Henno Henno Mo Heno (3 story “izakaya” restaurant). English menu, large sake menu friendly staff who will try to speak English ifyou’re having trouble ordering.Daily specials. Delicious food although it can endup a bit expensive if you stay the night there. Ove of my favorite restaruants.

  • G9 Ramen. Smells “very Chinese flavour”. Open until very late, ie morning.Good for an “after-drinking meal.”

  • G11 MinMin Chinese Restaurant (2nd floor). Chain restaurant. Quite good and sheap.

  • G15 Goninbayashi (a big red seign outside). Cheap “Izakaya” style restaurant that does eat as much as you can shabu-shabu. Very popular. Always get chatting to Japanese customers. Staf can be obnoxious however.

  • H1 Mr. Young Men. Okonomiyaki. Cheap.

  • H2 Nadaimon. Yakiniku. Price; average. SUggested item “gyu nikomi teishoku.”

  • H3 Tendan. YAkiniku. Expensive.

  • H4 Tonchinkan. Okonomiyaki. Price; above average.

  • S4 Food stall building (different name/business). Assorted cheap eats. Very reasonable. The ultimate variety.

  • S5 A’s (2nd floor). “Izakaya” Bottle cap opening tricks by the manager/owner.

  • Y1 Ke Ra Ra (2nd floor). Indian restaurant. Price; reasonable. Tasty dishes.

Bars/Clubs

  • G1 Scoreboard (basement bar). A small bar that always has various sports playing on TV screens ie baseball, American football, soccer, ice hockey (all from abroad). Many, many different types of beer from all over the world. Prices from around Y500. Have fod also; fries, chicken, etc. No cover charge.

  • G5 Pig and Whistle (2nd floor). British style pub.

  • G6 Den-en (I think. basment bar). Does a 2 hour drink as much asyou wnat. About Y2,000. Various foods also.

  • G12 Beer Shop. Friendly staff. Very convenient if you’re haveing a “session” sitting by the Kamogawa. Big selection of beers, wines, spirits.

  • G13 Hub. American style bar. No cover sharge. Cheap drinks, food video juke box. Almost always get a seat. Quieter than Har Isn’t It? if you wnat to sit and chat.

  • G14 Kyogeki (Maybe that’s the name) Bowling and Karaoke. Haven’t been there so don’t know much about it. However only opened a few months ago and seems popular.

  • M1 Mushroom Club (4th floor). Inte same building as Maharaja on Higashi-oji-dori north of Shijo-dori. Dance music small, dark.

  • S1 Bar Isn’t It? (basement entry). Gaijin bar, big spacious. Firday and Saturday nigts turn into a dance hall. Sunday nights – dancing or live music. Open every night. Y500 for food or drink. Empty can-recycling slot machine.

  • S2 Pub Africa (1st floor entry.

Cinema

  • G2 Cinema. Showing all recent releases.

How to Get There

Both the Kintetsu and JR Nara lines take you to the central Kyoto station. Just outside the main entrance is the bus station. Here you can take buses to all areas of Kyoto.

Getting Around

Buses are cheap (about ¥200) but can take awhile getting anywhere, particularly during rush-hours and during major festivals. Ask any of the bus inspectors which number bus you need to take you to your destination. Alternatively, the TICs will probably be able to furnish you with a decent map.

You can get free maps and tourist information from one of the tourist offices just north of the station. The Tourist Information Center (075-371-0480) in the Kyoto Tower Hotel, is open from 9 am - 5 pm on weekdays and 9 am - 12 pm on Saturday. The City Information Office (075-343-6655) by the bus terminal is open every day from 9 am to 5 pm.

Also, “Kyoto Visitor’s Guide,” a monthly source of useful festival and special event schedules, along with excellent maps, has recently resumed publication. Available free of charge at TIC and other major tourist spots.

Aside from buses, trains are a quick way of getting around Kyoto. See directions later in this section.

Sightseeing: The Essentials

Unlike Nara, which is relatively compact and easy to explore on foot, Kyoto is spread out and requires the use of buses and trains. Don’t try and see too much in one go or you’ll wear yourself out. Kyoto is always there so discover it at your leisure.

East Kyoto (Higashiyama)

Ginkakuji temple; Kiyomizu-dera; Sanjusangen-do temple; and the Path of Philosophy (particularly in the cherry blossom season). For a slice of old Japan, a visit to the Gion district is recommended; you may even be lucky enough to see the odd geisha or maiko (apprentice geisha) strolling around.

North-West Kyoto (Kitayama)

Kinkakuji Temple—One of Japan’s best known sights; and Ryoanji, with its famous sand and rock garden.

West Kyoto (Arashiyama)

Togetsu-kyo Bridge, Tenryu-ji temple.

Arashiyama is a beautiful area in western Kyoto where a row on the river is highly recommended (if you’re feeling argumentative). From Shijo Station (see above) take the Hankyu Kyoto line as far as Arashima. Alternatively, from Kyoto Station, take the San-in Line as far as Saga station and walk a little ways to Tongetsu Bridge. Also look for the temple mentioned above.

Central Kyoto (Rakuchu)

Nijo-jo (Nijo Castle)—Though doesn’t really rival Himeji-jo in Hyogo-ken, it’s worth seeing (and hearing the Nightingale Floors).

Entertainment

Festivals and cultural events

There are numerous festivals to see in Kyoto, and the little blue book Must See In Kyoto covers many of them. The most popular are the following:

Aoi Matsuri — Every May 15th; possibly Japan’s oldest festival.

Gion Matsuri — July 16th and 17th; one of Japan’s best known festivals.

Miyako Odori — Every day during April. This indoor event features Maiko dancing to traditional music. A wonderful experience, particularly if you’re with visiting relatives. In the theater “Kobu-Kaburenjo,” next to Gion Corner. Tickets from ¥1,650 to ¥3,800 (the latter includes a mini-tea ceremony).

Other Events And Things To Do

Gion Corner has shows each evening at 7:40 and 8:40 between March 1 and November 29. Sure, it’s for tourists, but you’ll see a little of the tea ceremony, koto, ikebana, kyogen, dancing, and bunraku (puppets). A good sampler for those Japan-weary or wary visiting relatives. ¥2,500.

Kyoto Connection is a free performance evening and “gathering” held on the 3rd Saturday of every month (except August and December). To get there, take bus 46 from Shijo station and get off at Ushiwaka. It’s in the Teatro Marron, above the Farrago Rome restaurant. For more details, call Ken Rogers at 075-712-7129.

Flea Markets

There are two big monthly markets in Kyoto: On the 21st in Toji Temple (Toji station on the Kintetsu line to Kyoto). On the 25th at Kitano Tenman-Gu shrine. Lots of junk, interesting prints and antiques, piles of yukata and kimono (as low as ¥1,000), and a few funky fellow bargain hunters now and then. It’s fun just to rummage through the stuff and people-watch.

Temple Lodgings

Known as “shokubo” in Japanese, temple lodgings typically offer simple digs, optional morning prayers, early curfew, and nearby public baths. Usually from ¥3,000. Also, lodgings for women-only are offered at Rokuo-in, in western Kyoto (tel. 861-1645). Kyoto TIC has full shokubo info.

Shijo And Kawaramachi Area

This is the main shopping and nightlife area. (Please see accompanying map.) You can get there by buses 4, 5 and 205 from Kyoto Station. If you want to go there directly from Nara, it’s quicker to change from Kintetsu before Kyoto Station, at Tambabashi. From there, change to Keihan line, and it’s three stops by express to Keihan Shijo Station.

Kyoto Shopping

In Shijo-Kawaramachi area, you’ll find three department stores, two large covered arcades, the famed Gion, the Kyoto Handicraft Center, the riverside entertainment district, Meijiya imported food store, Virgin records, and Maruzen bookstore. And much more! You may wish to travel there directly by train rather than by bus. On the Kyoto-bound Kintetsu train from Nara, alight at Tambabashi and change onto the Keihan Line. Take this train as far as Shijo, right near Kawaramachi-Dori. This will also bring you within striking distance of Gion and Higashiyama.

Maruzen — Arguably better than Kinokuniya in Osaka in that it has a bigger selection of English books (an entire floor) and a huge fiction section. Its new, spacious building is a much more pleasant place to browse than the cramped aisles of Kinokuniya. Located on Kawaramachi between Shijo-dori and Sanjo-dori.

Kyoto Handicraft Center — Near Heian Shrine (Heian-jingu). Loads of traditional goods such as yukata, scrolls and prints. Nearby (check a map) is Shinmonzen Street, the center of the local antique trade, with wares from every corner of Asia. It’s a great place to shop, but not a place to buy!