XI. Southern Nara¶
Gojo¶
Gojo is a city of 35,000 people on the borders of Wakayama, Osaka and Nara Prefectures and is often considered the “capital” of western half southern Nara Prefecture. The Yoshino river, dividing line for the southern half of Nara prefecture, runs right through the middle of town. The name “Gojo” most likely comes from the meanings of the Chinese characters that make up the name “Gojo.” The first character means “five” and the second character means “branches.” Historically there were five major roads that lead into and out of Gojo: Ise-Kaido, Kishu-Kaido, Nishi-Kumano-Kaido, Shimotsu-michi, and Sakai-Kaido. These five roads can be seen as the five branches of Gojo.
Various sites in and around the city reflect the length of Gojo’s history, which dates back beyond the Jomon Period. There are so many places to see that it’s impossible to list them all here, so I will stick with the main attractions.
Eisan-ji Temple¶
Eisan-ji was established in 719 by Fujiwara Buchimaro as a family temple by the southern clan of the Fujiwara family. The temple contains many National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties, the most famous of which is the Hakaku-do (Octagonal Hall). It was built by Nakamaro Fujiwara in 765 as an act of filial piety upon the death of his parents, and is the oldest structure of Eisan-ji. In 1554 a fire at Eisan-ji burned everything with the exception of the Hakkaku-do. The hall has undergone restoration twice: first in 1098 when the roof was repaired, and extensive restoration was done in the 44th year of Meiji (1912). At that time the building was declared a National Treasure. The paintings on the canopy around the images are Important Cultural Properties.
Eisanji’s bonsho (temple bell) was given as an offering by the Fujiwara clan and dates from the Heian Period. It is one of two bells remaining from this period in Japan and is a National Treasure. The image of Yakushi-nyorai (the Buddha of Healing) housed in the main hall dates from 1431 and is an Important Cultural Property. On the grounds there is a seven-tiered stone tower, a type of stupa, which dates from the Nara period and is one of the oldest stone pagodas remaining in Japan.
Shinmachi¶
Shinmachi is the area of Gojo that grew along with the merchant class during the Edo period. To this day things appear as they might have at the end of the Edo period over 125 years ago (with the exception of telephone poles!) Shinmachi is historically similar to the famous Imai-cho in Kashihara, but has not been restored as Imai-cho has and therefore does not function as a tourist attraction, but rather is a quite place of residence for many of Gojo’s citizens. Worth the visit!
Shiryokan (History Museum)¶
This newly opened museum designed by world famous architect Ando Tadao outlines Gojo’s history from prehistoric times to the modern day. Includes an ever-so-trippy 3D computer-operated cinema that produces drastic temperature changes to coincide with the film.
Shimoichi Township¶
Shimoichi, together with Oyodo and Yoshino form the largest urban area in Yoshino County. A few years ago the citizens of these three communities voted down a proposition for them to band together as a single political unit to be called Yoshino City. Thank God. Buses for various points in Southern Nara leave from Shimoichi station. Shimoichi is famous for its disposable chopsticks (waribashi). Between Gojo and Shimoichi there are some nice places to hang out and go swimming (and even kayaking) along the Yoshino River.
Oyodo Township¶
The Yoshino River, where it runs through Oyodo and Yoshino Townships, seems to be a popular destination for “nature” seeking northerners. If you’ve ever been through there on a weekend in the summer to witness the Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto-plated four-wheel-drives that line the once-beautiful-turned-parking-lot river bed, you know what I mean.
Yoshino Township¶
Like Shimoichi and Oyodo, Yoshino Township has a lot to offer, especially if you do a bit of exploring away from the main drags of these rural “urban” centers. The mountains to the east, west, and south all offer excellent and (because of the Kintetsu Yoshino Line) accessible hiking.
- I look out today
- and see even the clouds
buried in blossoms;
- the haze cannot overcome
the mountains of Yoshino.
Fujiwara no Ietaka
There is one place in Yoshino that deserves special mention: Mt. Yoshino. Legendary for its “three thousand” (figuratively speaking, while in reality there are tens of thousands) wild cherry trees (yamazakura), Mt. Yoshino has been The Place for cherry blossom viewing in Japan for over 1,500 years. Its fame does tend to draw large crowds from all over the world in the spring, but cherry blossom viewing on Mt. Yoshino is worth experiencing.
Take Kintetsu Yoshino Line from Kashiharajingumae station to Yoshino, the last stop. A 5 minute cable car ride will bring you to the top of the mountain. It is recommended to do a bit of hiking up through all the crowds, past the many antique shops and restaurants that line the streets overlooking the valley to Kami-senbon (literally, “the upper thousand trees”), where you will be sure to find a quiet spot to enjoy your saké, and of course the blossoms.
- (As long as it is seen
it is imagined);
The faint moon In the morning dawning
Into the cradle of Yoshino falling
White snow
- from Hyakunin-ishu
(trans. Ed Morris)
Mt. Yoshino, in any season, should not be missed.
Nishiyoshino Village¶
Just south of Gojo city is Nishiyoshino, famous throughout Japan for its plum blossoms in early March and its persimmons in the fall. If you can, get there to see the Anou plum orchards (Anou bairin) when they’re in bloom. Also, stop by the Hori house, a 750 year old structure where Emperor Godaigo spent a few days on his flight from Kyoto to Mt. Yoshino. Great hiking through the plum and persimmon orchards is just a 20 minute bus ride from Gojo! Take the JR bus bound for Jodo ( ) that departs from Gojo station, and get off where ever you fancy. I favor Anou myself….
Oto Village¶
“Does anyone even live in Oto?” some Japanese teachers were joking in the staff room the other day. “Hey, that’s not fair!,” I quickly reprimanded the guilty parties. “Everyone knows that there are 12 students enrolled in the junior high school!”
Although there’s not a whole lot to Oto, if you like good camping, you should check out the Akadani area. There is a new onsen center under construction, but with the recent collapse of a bridge under construction and two major land slides that cut off transportation for weeks, there’s no telling when it will be completed.
One thing Oto Village does have to offer is its observatory atop Tenstuji pass. Call them for more information and reservations.
Nosegawa Village¶
Between Oto village and the Wakayama boarder is Nosegawa. Like the rest of Southern Nara, there’s good hiking, mountain biking, and camping in Nosegawa. Among the things to check out are Tateri and Kojintake mountain and its accompanying Kojinja Shrine.
Totsukawa¶
Totsukawa-mura is Nara Prefecture’s largest town by area and also its most southern. It is, in fact, the largest mura in all of Japan by area (mura is a governmental distinction for any municipality with less than 10,000 people). It takes nearly two hours to drive from north to south!!
Its easy considering how close together most of the major population centers and popular tourist spots in Nara Prefecture are to dismiss Totsukawa as being too far away to be worth visiting. Looking at a map of the placements of Nara JETs in the Prefecture makes it look like basically everyone is in the northern third of the prefecture with one lone person down south. This year though, as JETs have been introduced in more areas in Yoshino-gun, the lines of those map are being pushed south and Totsukawa seems less distant. In fact, if one drives or catches a ride from Gojo (closest train stop — none continue down towards Nishiyoshino and Totsukawa), Totsukawa High School is only about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Sakurai and about 3 hours from Nara City. Surely a distance that requires some minimal planning ahead, but not so far that one should miss the many attractions of the area.
For many foreigners living in Kansai, their first steps into the mountainous areas of Yoshino-gun are often a bit disorienting. Many people simply don’t realize that areas as natural and rural as these exist so close to Osaka, Nara, Kobe and Kyoto. Suddenly everyone has a car (which for many foreigners is a reminder of home), there is physical space between buildings and the pace of life is much slower. Totsukawa offers these welcome changes plus many other attractions. First off, there is the chance to simply get away from it all and get into nature by doing some hiking. Mt. Tamaki, at a little over 1000 m tall, offers a challenging (its quite steep most of the way but suitable for beginners) day-hike, but is only the beginning of the smorgasbord of hiking trails that abound in the area. One could literally do a different hike in Totsukawa (and surrounding areas) every day of the summer and never do the same hike twice.
To plan a hike, one must first get hold of a reliable map. Good hiking maps (in Japanese) put out by “Eariamappu” company, covering about 100 different hiking areas in Japan, can be bought at most books stores. The hiking areas in Totsukawa are covered by map #56 (Yoshino-yama in Yoshino-cho through Omine-san and Misen in Tenkawa down to Tamaki-san in Totsukawa) and #55 (western Totsukawa and Ryusenji-mura and Koya-san in Wakayama-ken.) Even more detailed are the topographical maps available free at town halls. The “Eariamappu” maps are great to get started, yet some people find that they sometimes fail to show very minor trails (which sometimes can lead a hiker the wrong way) that the topographical maps almost always include.
After any hike, there’s nothing like a good bath and Totsukawa (along with Hongu-cho just south of Totsukawa in Wakayama-ken – see Kii Peninsula section) offers some of the best hot springs in Kansai. At the top of the luxury scale is Subaru Onsen in Hiratani (the largest village in Totsukawa, located in southern part of town about 3 km from Totsukawa High School). It costs ¥800 a dip, but that should be halved if you are with the Totsukawa A.E.T. More popular with J.E.T.’s in the past (and more cheap at ¥200 a dip – with the A.E.T. discount) is Kamiyu On-sen, located about 8 km west of Hiratani on the southern of the two roads connecting Hiratani with Ryusenji-mura in Wakayama-ken. Both sexes’ baths are located outside and the men’s is right by the river. Its cool (literally) to wade into the river during the summer and then jump back in the bath. For the less modest women, its probably O.K. during the night and when lots of folks aren’t around for the men’s to become co-ed, but discretion is advised. Either way, men bathing here should be comfortable with being naked in front of strangers as their bath offers little privacy.
What else in Totsukawa – well if one had a mountain bike, the possibilities are endless. There is also the longest walking suspension bridge in Japan (tsuribashi) in Uenoji – only 50 minutes from Gojo by car. There is the tallest waterfall in Japan and near Tamaki Shrine on the top of Mt. Tamaki is a 3000 year old tree!! Finally, there is the night life. Hiratani, as the hub of Totsukawa society, has several bars, izakayas, “snacks” and Karaoke bars. Why so many (relatively) drinking holes in such a small town?? Totsukawa does, as said, have lots of attractions, and in the summer its a pretty popular destination for city-weary folks, and these folks need something to do when the sun goes down. Anyway, any visit to a drinking establishment this far off the beaten trail of foreigners is sure to be an interesting experience.
The key to a visit to Totsukawa as a Nara JET is probably getting in touch with the JET who lives there. He/She will have a car and know lots about where to go and what to check out. Also, the Totsukawa JET goes up to Uenoji, a “large” northern village in Totsukawa, to teach on every other Fridays, and might be willing to pick people up in Gojo if they want to come down for the weekend.
As you can probably discern, the best way to get to Totsukawa is to hitch a ride with someone. There are buses, however, that run about seven times a day, mostly in the morning and mid-day from Gojo to Totsukawa (be sure to check where in Totsukawa they go – some only go as far as Uenoji). Three of these buses start at Kintetsu Yagi station before going to Gose and then Gojo on the way down. A bus will cost about ¥3,000 from Gojo and take about 3 hours (basically whatever it takes by car can be doubled to figure how long it will take by bus.) The bus takes the same route that cars do from Gojo to Totsukawa – National Route 168 through Nishiyoshino, Oto and finally to Totsukawa, and then, in some cases, onto Hongu-cho and Shingu-shi (on the coast) in Wakayama-ken. One can actually change buses at the Totsukawa Town Hall in Ohara or Hiratani Bus Center and use one of the Totsukawa-mura public buses (they are white and red and about 2/3 the size of a regular bus) to get to some of the onsens, but this takes a little prior knowledge….
And that comes, as said, from the JET down in Totsukawa, to whom its probably a good idea to give a call – at least to have a place to stay.
Main attractions of Totsukawa:
Subaru, Kamiyu, Tensenji (near town hall), Shimoyu onsens
Nachi Falls (just south of Totsukawa in Wakayama prefecture)
the Big Bridge in Uenoji
Tamise Bridge
Tamaki Shrine
Major bus stops between Yagi, Gojo, Totsukawa and Shingu:
Kintetsu Yagi - Kintetsu Takadashi - Kintetsu Gose-shi - Gojo Bus Center - Gojo JR Station - Ano (Nishiyoshino) - Jodo(Nishiyoshino) - Ui (Oto-mura) - Asahibashi (all Totsukawa from here) - Uenoji - Kazaya - Totsukawa Yakuba Mae (in front of Totsukawa Town Hall – this stop is located in the area of town known as Ohara) - Oritachi - Kominoue (Totsukawa High and AET apartment) - Totsukawa Onsen (This is the Hiratani stop) - Nanairo (last stop in Totsukawa) - Hongu Taisha (big, famous shrine in Hongu-cho), Kumano Hongu, Shingu.
Kurotaki¶
Kurotaki lies between Shimoichi and Tenkawa on the 309 and visitors to Tenkawa will be passing through it if they notice the 309 diner on their left. Whilst this village is entierly lacking in any tourist destinations of note, their is an Onsen and a bit of a tourist/camping complex about 5 mins. from the 309 if you turn left at the diner. The Onsen is really nice and has a wooden Sauna, but is only open from 12:00 to 6:00.
Tenkawa¶
Tenkawa-mura might be a bit hard to get too, but its every bit worth it considering it’s substantial historical, cultural, and natural attractions. “Tenkawa” literally means “heaven’s river,” and if one subscribes to the theory that heaven is located in the sky, this is as close to it as one can get in Nara Prefecture. Tenkawa is where the Yoshino-Kumano mountain range reaches its peak.
What one imagines when they think of a rural Japanese mountain village is probably very much like Dorogawa, in Tenkawa-mura. Located deep in a mountain valley, it is a place where people still cling to older ways. A community of only 600 where everyone still knows everyone else, and people sit out on in front of their houses and chat and gossip and joke, where food is still hand-made mostly from natural and local ingredients, and a new birth in town is bigger news than any election in Tokyo.
Yet Dorogawa is more that a picturesque village. It is also a major tourist area in Yoshino-gun. Why?? Well, beyond a popular onsen, good fishing, great hiking and a ski area (VERY small), Dorogawa lies at base of Omine-san, the most important mountain for followers of the Shugendo sect of Japanese Buddhism. Shugendo is an ancient sect that places great importance on ascetic practices and has often been noted for its strong ties to the highly ritualistic, ascetic and naturalist Shinto faith.
What makes Omine-san even more notable is that it is the only mountain in Japan - perhaps even the world - that does not let women on it. Well, its not the mountain that stops women, its the practitioners of Shugendo who preserve the ancient tradition of not allowing women on holy mountains. This tradition was not just a part of Shugendo but historically part of many schools of Japanese Buddhism (mountains, for reason to long to explain here, have traditionally played an important role in both Shinto and Japanese Buddhism.) Koya-san (Shingon Sect) and Fuji-san (worshipped as the highest mountain in Japan) both used to be “men only.”
It is important to here explain that “Omine-san” has come to have two meanings. Nowadays, when one says “Omine-san” they are referring to the one peak called “Sanjogatake” which is where Omine-san temple is located, and it is this mountain that men climb when they start from Dorogawa (women often climb Inamura-san - a bit higher than Sanjogatake but a do-able round-trip day hike from Dorogawa, like Sanjogatake.) Traditionally “Omine-san” refers to the a whole string of mountains that form an extended summit path (“mine” means summit) from Yoshino-yama in Yoshino-cho all the way down through Sanjogatake, Misen, Tamaki-san in Totsukawa down to Hongu Shine in Hongu-cho in Wakayama-ken, just south of Totsukawa. It is just the one mountain “Sanjogatake” that women are still not allowed on. Also, the path from Yoshino-cho to Hongu-cho is the traditional hike and takes about a week – anyone who had a week to do it would probably have a great time!!! Of course, any women hikers would have to plan a detour around Sanjogatake…..
Tenkawa Village also has a temple for Benten-sama, the patron deity of musici and sensuality. Brian Eno and Mick Jagger have made pilgrimages here. Noh performances and new age performances take place every month or two on the stage in front of the shrine. Some AET’s visiting after New Years were lucky enough to participate in the blessing of Japanese music proffessors from Osaka. If your around on August the 3rd you can witness the priests put lanterns on the river at dusk - this festival is highly recomended. Also on the same night is the incredible Gyojah Matsuri up the mountain in Dorogawa.Catch the bus from Shimoichi Station on the Kintetsu Yoshino line. Don’t take this mountain bus ride with a hangover.
Essential info:
Main Attractions:
Mitarai Keko (nice waterfall set in rock formation)
Dorogawa: Ominesan, onsens, camping, traditional style ryokan, skiing, limestone caves.
Misen – considered the tallest mountain in the Kinki region and a challenge for hikers from all over Japan.
Benten Shrine
NATURE!!
Getting to Tenkawa-mura:
Kawai – the “hub” of Tenkawa and where the town hall is located, is a bit less than an hour and a half by bus from Shimoichiguchi station on the Kintetsu Line. This same bus almost always continues to Dorogawa and this takes another 15 minutes. From Kawai one can take Tenkawa municipal buses or occasionally other Nara Kotsu buses to other areas of Tenkawa. Now that an ALT lives in Tenkawa, it might be worth giving him a call before you go…..
Higashi-Yoshino-mura¶
Higashi-Yoshino (“East Yoshino”) is a region with numerous mountains covered with Yoshino cedar and Hinoki cypress trees, and many clear rapid streams. Hiking along paths on beautiful Mt. Takamiyama and Myojin-daira plateau will make you feel the change of seasons directly on your skin.
Higashi-Yoshino is rich in history. You can recall many beautiful, pleasant or sad stories which are related to this region since the time of Emperor Jimmu’s expedition to conquer eastern barbarians to the rise of the Tenchugumi riots against the Shogun’s army just prior to the Meiji Restoration.
Watching the famous “Kenka” (fighting) festival of Niugawa Shrine, you can enjoy the naive but courageous spirit of the village people.
Furusato-mura (Home Village) When Higashi-Yoshino villagers made a present of firefly’s larvae to the children of Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, a friendly link was born between Sakai citizens and Higashi-Yoshino villagers. As on of the activities to strengthen the friendly tie, they have established the “Furusato-mura” facility. It is located along the beautiful Shigo-gawa river and is surrounded by a deep green forest.
Firefly Park This is a facility for the study and observation of fireflies, which can be raised only in a clean environment. Villagers are working hard to maintain a clean environment in the village so that it will be filled with the light of many fireflies.
Kanko Tsuribashi (Suspension bridge for tourists) This is a suspension bridge to connect the Rest House and the various facilities on the opposite side of the Shigo-gawa river.
Visitor’s Center A primary school building 100 years old was remodeled to serve as a fashionable guest house. A restaurant full of forest mood, exhibition rooms of tourist spots, industry, history, geography and culture of the village are found in this building. This is the center of the “Furusato-mura” facilities.
Furusato Kaikan (Home Village hall) With accommodation facilities for 85 guests, study rooms, a lounge room, a big public bath, and so on, there is ample space here for friendly intercourse and relaxation.
Fureai-hiroba (Communion Plaza) The main attractions of camping are a camp-fire and open-air games that will bring all campers close together in the evening. There are also gate-ball and tennis courts in the plaza.
Water wheel A small but real water wheel mill can still be used for making cereal powder or rice-cake pounding.
Camping site To feel closest to nature, the best method is to sleep in a tent. A night surrounded by a deep forest and a clean stream will become an unforgettable experience.
Firefly spot The stream in front of “Furusato-mura” is an excellent place for fishing, swimming, and catching ayu fish with your own hands.
Rest House To have a comfortable rest after enjoying yourself fully in the village, the rest house provides an ideal space for a nap. Cool and fresh breezes from the river will refresh your face and body.
Mount Takami¶
This conically-shaped mountain, which has traditionally been an object of worship, presents an impressive view to the visitor. Rising 1,249 m (4,980 ft), the mountain is well-known for the beauty of its ice-covered trees in winter. Takatsuno Shrine, located at the peak, is said to have been built for a god depicted in the ancient tale of Emperor Jimmu. This area has been important throughout history as a center of religious faith, especially of the ancient Japanese who worshipped the spirits of mountains and waterfalls.
Kawakami-mura¶
There are mountains, valleys, waterfalls and famous spring waters in Kawakami. You can breathe deeply the fresh air being embraced by the greatness of nature. The colors of fresh of tinted leaves sink deep in your heart and tell you of the changing seasons.
Kawakami village lies quietly in the eastern corner of Yoshino. The village is well-known for Yoshino cedar coming from one of the three most beautiful forests of Japan. It was also a stage for many romantic stories in history, some of which are mentions in the Manyoshu, a collection of ancient Japanese poems. It is also the site where Prince Jitenno was killed by the betrayal of his vassals while working hard to revive the Nancho (Southern Imperial Court–14th century). There are many shrines and temples related to the imperial families and noble people of the Nancho.
Mokko-no-sata (Woodworks pavilion) — In the pavilion, there is a woodwork center where tables and chairs are manufactured, sales counters of wooden souvenirs called “Log House Friends”, and “Ton-ton Woodwork Shop” where visitors can enjoy woodworking by themselves, as well as take lodging.
Seirei-no-taki (Dragonfly waterfall) and Biwa-no-taki (Biwa lute waterfall) — Tombo-no-taki is about 50 m high and has plenty of water. Sprays of the falls often make rainbows reflecting the sun. Thus, the falls is also called “Rainbow Falls”. Biwa-no-taki is located on the upper stream of Shimotakogawa river and is 100 m high.
Fudo-kutsu Cave — Inside, it is cool even in summer. Being a stalactite cave of 140 m deep, there are many rocks of strange shapes and invite us to a mysterious world. A waterfall of 35 m in the cave is quite impressive.
Niu-kawakami Shrine — The shrine is built in traditional Shinto style, facing the Yoshino River. There is a custom that when farmers want rain, they dedicate a black horse to the God and when they want rain to stop, they dedicate a white horse.
Primeval forest of Togasawara (natural monument) — At the joining point of the Sannokimigawa and Kitadonogawa rivers, there is the tiny forest of Togasawara, often referred to as a living fossil.
Byobu-iwa (rocks shaped like a folding screen) — A unique scenery of straight formation of rocks mid-stream in the Kaminotani-gawa River. Especially beautiful with fresh green leaves and tinted leaves.
Sports and hiking — The village is full of clear streams abundant in various river fish. You can catch ayu in the Yoshino River running through the middle of the village. Amago fish are found in the Nakai Valley and Kijigamori Valley. At the Fishing Park in the Ohseko Dam near Shionoha Hot Spring, you can fish for carp and crustaceans at the pier.
Ono Sports Park at Akitsu — This is a sports park surrounded by the beauty of nature near “Tekuteku Pavilion” and “Mokumoku Pavilion”. There are 3 tennis courts, 2 gate-ball courts, a putter golf course, and various types of athletic equipment available. There is also a clubhouse equipped with shower facilities.
Mt. Shiroya-dake — 1,177 m above sea level. If you stand on top of the mountain where Alpine roses grow densely, you can see clearly Mt. Shirahige-dake, Mt. Yonsuniwa-yama and Mt. Daitenjodake. The view from Meganeiwa rock is superb.
Mt. Shirahige-dake — 1,378 m above sea level. There is a small shrine dedicated to Shirahige Daimyojin (a Shinto deity). On a clear day you can see Mt. Fuji.
Fukugenji Temple: Yakushi-Nyorai-zazo — This temple is said to have been founded by En-no-gyoja, a well-known religious leader of ascetic disciplines. The temple houses a seated statue of Yakushi-Nyorai which dates back to the year 1085 (Heian Period) as indicated by its inscription. This statue has been designated as an important cultural property.
HOT SPRINGS¶
Shionoha-onsen — This is a hot spring with hundreds of years of history at the entrance of the mountain road leading up to Odaigahara. Many visitors have come here since the Edo Period. The springtime temperature of the water is 39 degrees C and is good for neuralgia and gastroenteric disorders. There is one ryokan (Inn) and two minshuku (Japanese-style bed-and-breakfast).
Yumori-onsen — Villagers used to boil vegetables here and military horses used to be brought here for recuperation. Based on these legends, the village office made borings recently and discovered this hot spring. Hotel Suginoyu is newly built with modern facilities.
Kamikitayama-mura¶
Kamikitayama is the region of Odaigahara Plateau, a great primitive sea of trees. Odaigahara is located at the southern end of Daikosan mountain range. With Hinode-dake, 1,695 m high, as the highest peak, it is a great natural panorama zone rich in forests, plains, cliffs, waterfalls, mountain streams, and marshes. Driving through the area offers a beautiful view of cherry blossoms in spring and changing autumn leaves in fall. Forest bathing, stream fishing, and bird-watching are typical summertime activities. Skiing and collecting various plants are also options.
Kodokoro Onsen — Walking up the mountain path along Kobuchigawa stream, you will arrive at Kodokoro Onsen hot spring. The area is rich in natural rocks of various sizes and shapes, clear and clean streams, and is sometimes visited by wild monkeys. The hot spring here is good for high blood pressure, rheumatism, diabetes, etc. Visitors come from Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto regions. It is also a good resting point for alpinists who climb Mt. Odaigahara.
Kamikitayama Onsen — This hot spring is located at Kawai, the center of Kamikitayama-mura. Discovered in 1987, it is good for neuralgia, muscular ache, articular ache, etc.
Special products of the village
Wasabi horseradish, eel, wooden statue of Odai antelope, Kitayama lacquered ware, horse chestnut cake, sushi wrapped with bamboo leaves.
Odaigahara plateau¶
The Odaigahara highlands is sometimes called the “Backbone or Roof of the Kinki District”. The area has the highest precipitation. in Japan–5000 mm/year. It has such mountains as Mount Hinodedake which rises 1,695 m (5,560 ft). On a clear day, Mt. Fuji can be seen from its peak. Surrounded by steep cliffs, Odaigahara presents a magnificent display of nature, including a primeval forest. Watch out for giant salamanders and Japanese serows. There is a dense woods of 2,000 hectares called Ushiiwagahara, in addition to Masagigahara, Daijaiwa, etc.
Kamikitayama Tourist Association T639-37 Ohaza Kawai, Kamikitayama-mura, Yoshino-gun, Nara, Tel: 07468-2-0001
Shimokitayama-mura¶
Shimokitayama is a green village located at the southernmost corner of Nara Prefecture. It is cool in summer and full of cherry blossoms in spring and colorful tinted leaves in autumn. Recently, for the development of the dry riverbed just below Ikehara Dam, a grand sports park was constructed. Surrounded by mountains, this comprehensive outdoor athletic center provides citizens with opportunities for sports and entertainment activities year-round in an environment abundant with nature. It contains such athletic facilities as a multipurpose recreational area, tennis courts, and a golf course.
Ikehara Dam and Nanairo Dam are already famous for black bass fishing. Also, there are many fishing spots for ayu and amago fish on the banks of the streams in the village.
Statue of En-no-Gyoja — Historical monument of the village. After En-no-gyoja made Mt. Omine-san the place for ascetic practices and study, his disciples, Gikan and giken, were ordered by him to live in this village as guardians of the practice hall. One of their descendants still lives today and guards the hall in Mt. Omine-san.
History and Folklore Museum — Through the good offices of Mr. Kyuji Nishimura, who was born in the village, the former Nishimura Hospital was remodeled and opened in 1987 as a museum exhibiting some 500 items which were used by the villages in their daily lives.
Myojin-ike pond — From Ikehara-no-sato along Route 169, walking up a steep slope to the hilltop, you will face a quiet blue-green pond. This is Myojin-ike, the God of Ike Shrine.
Fudo-nanae-no-taki — About 6 km walk from Zenki-guchi along the village path, you will see this splendid waterfall on the Zenki River.
Lodging: Yasuragi and Kusunoki— For 120-170 guests. Good for family trip, summer school, training courses. Check out Ike-no-taira golf course (9 holes) if you have time.
Spring dates:
March 1: Opening of the fishing season for amago fish.
Early April: Cherry blossom festival
Mid-April: Spring festival of the Ike Shrine
Late April: Exploration of Tsuchinoko (a mysterious wild animal; Jitsuri Gyoja festival
Summer and Winter dates:
Mid-June: Opening of the fishing season for ayu fish.
Late June: Fireflies show up
Mid-July: Ikenotaira Gentleman’s Golf Tournament
Late July: Black bass fishing school starts
Early August: Summer festival
October: Mountain Music Festival
November: Autumn Festival of Ike shrine; Ikenotaira Ladies’ Golf Tournament; Autumn festival of Sumiyoshi Shrine.
Tsuchinoko¶
Tsuchinoko is said to have been witnessed by many people since ancient times, but nobody has actually caught the mysterious animal. According to the legend, it is 30-70 cm long, having a triangular head, a beer-bottle-shaped trunk, a slender but short tail and no legs, a little like a snake. It sneezes, stands straight up, jumps and tools stretches and shrinks.
History of the area¶
Ike Shrine¶
From Ikehara-no-sato, there is a steep slope going up along Kitayama-gawa River. When you come up to the top, you will see a large blue green pond. This pond is called “Myojin-ike” and is considered as the God of Ike Shrine.
Long, long ago, in the Hakuho Period of Emperor Tenmu (7th century), there came horrible sounds from the bottom of the pond. Level of water rose and made big waves on the surface. As it continued for several days, all the villagers were so scared that they could not go to work nor sleep at night.
Hearing about this mysterious happening, En-no-gyoja (a famous super-powered ascetic) flew over the pond, built a stand and prayed for three days and nights to appease the anger of the water god (dragon). Villagers built a shrine and dedicated it to the god.
(p.s.–rumor has it that, in a recent year, following the victory of the Hanshin Tigers in the Japanese World Series, a statue of Colonel Sanders was snatched from its KFC nest and cast headlong into a river in Osaka. When the Tigers began to lose games a shrine was erected in honor of the Colonel! Ask about this great enigma of Japanese history at your local KFC.)
