Nara City

Introduction

It may well be the best place to live in Japan: Nara City and Nara Prefecture, the cradles of Japanese culture, offer us unmatched cultural sites and fine recreational resources. And perhaps just as important, Nara is conveniently near the major cities of Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto, and even Nagoya. But Nara City itself, even with a population of about 350,000, remains relatively tranquil. For some folks, this “small town” atmosphere can be a welcome change from the concrete jungles.

New Nara-ken JETs will have received stacks of redundant historical information about Nara, and so we’ll simply recommend two excellent resources: First, the book Nara: A Cultural Guide To Japan’s Ancient Capital by John and Phyllis Martin (Charles Tuttle Company). It’s amazingly informative and interesting, especially if you’re concerned at all with the historical and aesthetic aspects of the famous temples and other ancient sites in Nara. It contains detailed schedules of cultural attractions, as well as a useful calendar for festivals and “treasure hall” openings (very good to know!). Second, the Lonely Planet Japan guide’s section on Nara is quite good, as it provides maps, histories, and festival calendars. If you don’t have these two books, please immediately rush to Kinokuniya or Maruzen to get your copies.

Getting Oriented

Downtown: This area extends from the JR station at the west end of Sanjo-dori (Nara’s main street) to Nara Park at the east end, with lots of shopping arcades crossing it. Sanjo is closed to traffic on Sundays and is apparently the place to be. Kintetsu Nara Station is located between Higashimuki Arcade and Konishi Arcade. Nara Park is vast, with Todaiji temple to the north and Kasuga Grand Shrine in the south. A good map is available free from the info centers. South of the Downtown proper are a lot of narrow roads and old houses, together with some funky stores and museums, an area called Nara-machi.

Tourist Information Centers (TICs) have maps and brochures, and they also sell guidebooks. If you want a tour guide (see below) you can ask here:

• JR Nara Station

• Kintetsu Nara Station

• Central Public Hall, Chuokominkan (on Sanjo-dori–includes mini-museum and shop)

• Sarusawa Pond

Student Goodwill Guides (SGG) and English Goodwill Guides (EGG) are volunteers who have knowledge of Nara’s history and culture. Contact the TIC to make arrangements. They can also act as translators at hospitals, government offices, etc., if you arrange beforehand.

Transportation

Trains

There are two main stations, JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara. Kintetsu also has stations in Shin-omiya, Saidaiji, Ayameike, Gakuenmae, and Tomio. Both JR and Kintetsu also have stations in Takanohara; JR has a station in Kyobate.

Buses

The two main bus stations in Nara City are located at the Kintetsu Nara and JR Nara stations. For sightseeing, the city Loop Line buses (No. 2 and No. 6) are convenient, as they run clockwise from the stations through the Nara Park and Kasuga Taisha areas. City Loop Line bus No. 1 runs counter-clockwise. For major tourist stops on buses No. 1 and No. 2, recorded announcements are made in English and Japanese. Currently, the flat fare for Loop Line buses is ¥160.

Taxis

Taxis are readily accessible around the city, and cabbies are typically friendly but maybe a bit nervous about the common “language barrier” when it comes to picking up foreigners. If you’re just learning Japanese, it may take a moment to make the pronunciation of your destination understood, but there’s certainly no problem, especially if you’re going to a well known location (including schools). Remember that taxi doors open and close automatically—and there’s no need to tip.

The sites

Without question, to experience the true charms of Nara City, you should walk, and ideally, stroll along its quiet side streets and alleys. Stop frequently to refresh yourself, and just wander and explore. At this pace, the pleasures of this timeless city will quietly unfold before your eyes. Some selected points of interest, some off the main tourist trails, follow.

Todaiji

Why deny the obvious? Okay, sure, your supervisors have rushed you through Todaiji and introduced you to the Big Buddha, but please don’t let this suffice. Go back—on your own—and spend a couple of hours early in the morning or just before dusk and soak in the atmosphere. The surrounding sidestreets and areas off the main “concourse” are delightful. Besides, during these “break times,” the deer are off-duty and aren’t straining to look hungry and adorable; really, they nearly resemble wild creatures once they’ve clocked-out at the end of the day. An ideal place from which to take in the sunset is Nigatsudo, which is directly east of Daibutsuden (which houses the Great Buddha). From the balcony of Nigatsudo, gaze out over Nara City, and you can watch the sun drop behind Ikoma Mountain.

Nara park

Again, just because it’s the most popular place around doesn’t mean you should shun it. For instance, the open field area east of Todaiji is a nice place to meet friends for a picnic, play frisbee, watch people, or take an afternoon nap. The young couples making out can be simultaneously comical and endearing, and watching families with little children play games together (including the father!) can be just the remedy for the cynicism that sometimes creeps into a foreigner’s culture-shocked life. And here’s a hint: Well before the sun sets, most of the locals have left; stay and enjoy the serenity. Another hint: be careful where you sit.

Kasuga Taisha

The third of Nara City’s “Big Three” tourist spots, Kasuga Taisha should be appreciated in the same manner as Todaiji. Most JETs get escorted up to the main shrine area at a manic pace, whereupon their guides snap a photo or two and make a hasty retreat back to the train station. If this happens to you (and it will), come back very, very early some Saturday morning. Listening to the near-silence of this primeval forest is a rare experience.

Kofukuji’s Kokuho-kan (Treasure Hall)

Kofukuji is commonly experienced “on the fly” as visitors pass from Sarusawa Pond and make their way toward Nara Park. But the Kokuho-kan or “Treasure Hall” there contains some great statuary, including the elegant figure “Ashura,” which some visitors believe is by itself worth the price of admission. It’s a small but important treasure hall, located just a bit north and east of the Five-Storied Pagoda.

Nara-machi

Just south of Sarusawa Pond, Naramachi (“Nara Town”), is an ideal area for aimless meandering. For newcomers, it offers easy access (just walk south and east a few minutes from Kintetsu Nara) and perhaps an antidote to the madness of the Tokyo Orientation. Naramachi is one of the city’s oldest residential areas, and the tiny shops here supply locals with everyday household goods, food items, and the special gifts they exchange with old friends. As you’re drifting through this area, peeking into the shops, be sure to notice the various styles of the buildings. Of particular interest are the many “Kyoto-style” homes — the narrow fronts tend to conceal their relatively deep, spacious interiors. Such homes were built in a time when taxes were based on the size (width) of each house. Also, in this area is a small museum, the Orient-kan, which was founded by the Gluck family, who wrote the exhaustive book Japan Inside Out. And last, while in Naramachi, be sure to check out some of the restaurants and coffee shops, many of which the tourist hordes and school groups haven’t yet infiltrated.

Nara Orient-kan is a small museum exhibiting Near Eastern art and its influences on early Japan. There are Persian fabrics, rugs, and trinkets on sale, as well as Tea Masala. Chai and munchies are included in the ¥300 admission charge, and there are some good books to check out while you hang out. [10:00-17:00 / ¥300 / 0742-24-8415]

Kohshi ni Ie (Lattice House) is a restored merchant’s house from the Edo Period. It gives you an idea of the kind of thing behind all those lattices you see in Nara-machi. [9:00-17:00 / free / closed Mondays / 0742-23-4820]

Toki no Shiryokan (Timepiece Museum). A tiny place with lots of old clocks and calendars, mostly from Japan, but some others as well. Included in the entrance fee is the postcard of your choice. [10:00-16:00 / ¥100 / closed Mondays, Thursdays / 0742-26-5187]

Konjaku Kohgei Bijutsukan (Museum of Traditional and Modern Crafts) [10:00-16:00 / free / closed Mondays / 0742-22-5516]

Nara-machi Shiryoukan Kissho-do Houmotsu-kan (Nara-machi Lucky omen treasure house collection) [10:00-16:00 / free / closed Monday / 0742-22-5509]

Imanishi-ka Shoin (Imanishi Family Drawing room/Publishing house) [10:00-16:00 / ¥350 (¥800 with tea and dango) / closed Thursdays / 0742-23-2255]

Nara shiritsu shiryo Hozonkan (Nara City Historical Preservation Hall) [9:30-17:00 / free / closed Saturday, Sunday / 0742-27-0169]

Koshindo is a little shrine/temple where you can get those little red monkey things which hang from just about every shop eave in Nara-machi.

Nara Gardens

Isui-en is a delightful garden near Todaiji, and employs the “borrowed landscape” technique—incorporating Todaiji and the hills beyond into the garden’s design. This side of Kyoto, you won’t find many traditional Japanese gardens that rate with this small but lovely spot. It’s situated just east of the Kencho, across the main north-south road, and then about five minutes walk eastward. It’s usually not swamped with visitors, especially early and late in the day. For the price of admission, you can also enter the adjacent Neiraku Museum [10:00-16:00 / ¥520 / closed Tuesdays / 0742-22-2173], which houses art objects from China, Korea, and Japan. Isui-en features a small brook, stone lanterns, a tea house, and some great “borrowed views” of Mt. Wakakusa, Mt. Kasuga, and the imposing roof of Todaiji’s Daibutsuden. The garden is a good place to take your visiting relatives, especially as it’s so convenient to nearby attractions.

Yoshiki-en is right next to Isui-en, and just as beautiful. [9:00-16:30 / ¥200 / closed Tuesdays; open April-June and August-December / 0742-22-5911]

Tokiwa restaurant is right next to the gardens. It’s supposed to be pretty pricey, but they have a nice little coffee shop.

East of Nara City

Mountain Trails — When you’re in need of some fresh air and a little exercise, head over to Nara Park’s eastern edges. East of Downtown, the bustle of the city very quickly gives way to forested hills. Many hiking trails (for info pick up “Teku-Teku” [literally, the sound made when walking around] hiking maps in Kintetsu train stations) go over Mt. Wakakusa and to other destinations. There are many old houses and some lovely temples in the area, and don’t miss the drum-dancing festival on August 17!

Among the hiking trails east of nara you’ll find three idyllic walking paths that wind around Mt. Wakakusa and Mt. Kasuga. The first starts from the south edge of the grassy slope (“Naked Hill”) on Mt. Wakakusa and climbs to a parking area/overlook, from which you can see all of northern Nara Valley. To start out, take the main street that is home to Kintetsu Nara Station and Kencho and continue into the park. Walk east beyond the New Public Hall (“Big Roof”) to where the road dead-ends at the base of the Mt. Wakakusa. There, you’ll leave the city far behind and enter an untouched forest. A beautiful way to spend a Sunday morning.

Yagyu Kaido (“Yagyu Highway”). This trail leads you to the home of a famous old fencing family of Japan (and not of Ethiopia). From Kasuga Shrine, work your way south along the paths until you meet the east-west road that forms the southern border of the park. (You’ll be in the area of Shin-Yakushiji and the Nara Photography Museum.) At this road, turn left (east). In about five minute’s walking time, the pavement ends, and you’ll find yourself on a trail resembling Oz’s Yellow Brick Road. On the trail, you’ll pass some minuscule shrines, a hillside temple, and if you search hard enough among the many tiny side-paths, you’ll encounter a small, picturesque waterfall next to an “out of the way” soba shop (seriously!), where you can get a good lunch and some cold beer. As a precaution, however, pack some food and drink with you: Even if you find the shop, it seems to keep irregular hours.

To find the third path, jog right from the base of the Mt. Kasuga path and work your way a little further south, but stay along the base of the hill. You’ll pass some nice houses and enter the path at the top of the street. Sorry, no street names to help. This third path passes some old Buddha carvings on an outcropping of rock. Old cobblestones mark it as one of the oldest “roads” in Nara. The three paths connect at the top of a ridge road that runs for 10km (cars are allowed here, whereas the paths up are for pedestrians only). All in all, these mountain trails must certainly rank among Nara’s best kept secrets.

For more information on the hiking and biking sections, please refer to the Hiking and Biking sections of the chapter on General Recreation.

West of Nara City

West of Downtown lies the Heijo Palace Site, now a big open field (good for picnics) and a museum about the palace. Other points of interest include Saidaiji temple and Akishino-dera temples

For most JETs, the main attraction of the Saidaiji area is the Nara Family shopping center, with two big department stores, a number of small shops, and some good restaurants (some offer a good view of Nara at night)

At Gakuenmae station (a few stops down the Kintetsu line from Saidaiji) there is another sizable shopping center called Paradis.

Several stops from Saidaiji station on Kintetsu (bound for Kashihara) is Nishinokyo, a pleasant area for walking, with Yakushiji and Toshodaiji temples.

IV. Restaurants and Bars

Kintetsu Nara Area

Maguro — The sign outside says “Maguro” in hiragana. For ¥700, you can have a fantastic set of sashimi, fried tuna, grilled, teriyaki, braised—almost any way tuna can be served. This place is small and can get crowded quickly.

Komugiko — The menu spans Japanese, Italian, Russian, and Indian food. Dinner ranges from ¥600-1000. If you’re with a group of 4 or 5, the Mexican Sancho’s are great.

Vesel — Convenient location, in the Higashi Muki-Dori arcade on the second floor above a traditional Japanese pickle shop.. Good set lunch or set dinner for ¥600 and all the rice you can eat. The food is home style Japanese and quite tasty. The waiter likes to speak English, so it’s quite easy to order.

The Sublime — Set lunches around ¥800 with a wide assortment of pasta and seafood. Located next to Vesel in the arcade.

The Chattering Turtle (“Oshaberi no kame”) — reasonably priced large portions of pilaf dishes, passable pizza, and an English menu. It’s five minutes south of Kintetsu station, just a bit past McDonald’s, on the same side (west) of the arcade next to Nanto Bank.

Cafe Japanned — Located on the little alley between Higashimuki and Konishi arcades and across from Blue Angel Karaoke, this is a relaxed coffee shop by day and a languidly hip bar by night.

Raku — This curry shop has a small menu but delicious food. (closed Thursdays)

Cous Cous (Kuz Kuz) — Just next to Beni Bana, Cous Cous is Nara City’s only African Restaurant. At about ¥1,800, the set meals are highly recommended, as you’ll get a nice mix of delicious dishes. Past ALTs have praised the African salad and Kangaroo selections. Also, vegetarian may be requested.

Beni Bana (“Pizza Take Out OK”) - Just a few steps west of Rumours on Sanjodori, this place has decent pizza and pasta, and good prices on set menus. They serve Budweiser and Heineken, and the ambiance is decidedly “Western Pizza Joint.” An English/romaji menu is available. And by the way, pizza take out is indeed available.

Primavera — An Italian restaurant that features very nice atmosphere and pretty good pizza. On Sanjo-dori.

O-sho — this is a classic “greasy spoon”—great-tasting Chinese food with a rather high cholesterol count for those on a budget. Osho has many locations around Nara-ken. In Nara-shi, Osho is on Sanjodori near Daiei, on the same side of the street as McDonald’s.

A requiem for Cafe Nelson

Cafe Nelson — About five minutes walk directly east of Naramachi Center stands this coffeehouse and jazz oasis. The ambiance is a blend of acoustic jazz, British maritime, and pure coffeehouse. There’s a light food menu. From time to time, Nelson’s hosts live jazz on Saturday nights. To find this place, just look for the lighted red ship’s wheel out front. A perfect spot to meet for quiet conversation, not really the place for noisy groups.

Saidaiji Area

Tabeniko — With its “Gaikokujin Night” every week, this okonomiyaki place has become the “local” for the many JETs who drop by on Thursday after Japanese language class for cheap beer (Malt’s at ¥450) and complimentary chips (French fries). The okonomiyaki is very nice, and the proprietors, who enjoy speaking English, will treat you like family. Also, try stopping by on the other nights of the week. Just walk east three minutes from Saidaiji station, and Tabeniko is directly across from Nara Family, on the third floor (above the liquor shop).

NaraFamily Restaurants — On the basement floor and the sixth floor, you’ll find a wide variety of places, including a “food court” directly across from Jusco’s supermarket. Too many spots to mention, but most have pretty good food and fairly reasonable prices. Sixth floor restaurants, which tend to be “nicer,” stay open beyond the 7:00 p.m. closing time of Nara Family (which is usually closed Thursdays).

Capricciossa — Worthy of special mention is this pasta treasure hall, located on the south end of Nara Family’s sixth floor. The servings are of leviathan proportions; for example, one order of spaghetti will satisfy two or even three people. The waiters will, by the way, assume that your party wants to split the orders, so you don’t have to request extra bowls or plates. Be warned: A 45 minute wait isn’t uncommon on weekends. The lines are understandable: Delicious food and good prices are the draw.

Nara Entertainment

Bars

The Bronx — A dark, atmospheric bar located at the top of Sanjo-dori not far from Sarusawa pond. The entrance is very small, so you may have to hunt for it. Not a bad place to go for a quiet drink. It’s on the second floor and open every night.

Rumours — On Sanjo-dori close to the movie theater. Somewhat resembling an English pub, Rumours serves a wide variety of beers, a limited snack menu, and loud rock music. Happy hour is from 5:00. to 7:00, and Tuesday is “Gaijin Night,” with special drink prices. The Mexican Sancho’s are said to be great.

High Times — A good bar near Shin-Omiya station. The drinks are expensive, but there’s a pool table. From the station’s north exit, turn left on the street parallel to the tracks and walk for about three minutes.

Karaoke

Blue Angel Karaoke — In an alley between VIVRE and Higashimuki-dori arcade, this karaoke bar has a decent variety of English karaoke.

Voice Karaoke Party — This is it folks … the big show! Located directly north of the Nara Royal Hotel (west of Shin-Omiya Station), this place has two or three hundred English songs, mostly standard pop hits, but also many 60’s and 70’s classic rock tunes. If there’s another karaoke spot in Nara with more English songs, it’s yet to be discovered by JETs.

Movies

Yuraku Theater is located between MOS Burger and Rumours on Sanjo-dori. Watch the advertisements, and when there are two movie ads side by side, you can see two films for the price of one.

Video/CD Rentals

For many JETs, the Saidaiji “ACOM” video shop is the most convenient. Directly across from Nara Family, three minutes east of the station. A wide selection of English language movies. Videos and CDs can be rented from one day to one week. A week’s rental is less than ¥400. (Think about “sharing” with your friends.) Hours are from 7:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Bowling

Yes, bowling. You may be surprised by its popularity in Japan. And it’s a striking good time for groups of JETs! Most bowling alleys here have fully computerized scorekeeping. In the city, look for the giant silver “open hand” and bowling ball atop the alley just a few minutes west of Sogo. (Also see Sakurai section for bowling info.)

Nara Shopping

Foreign Language Books:

Chono’s Bookshop — Used books are tough to find, but this tiny shop, three minutes north of Saidaiji station sometimes has a small number of cheap used books in English, German, French, and Spanish. Look for these near the left side of the sales counter, if you can find it among the stacks. To get to Chono’s, take the North Exit of the station and walk directly across the street; then turn right onto the first small road; at the end of the block, just past the bicycle parking area, you’ll see manga piled outside the door of the shop, which is on the left (across from “Snack” spelled in kana). Happy hunting!