Food¶
You probably heard about how Japanese food is so healthy and you are going to lose so much weight this year. Yeah. Well, while the Japanese diet does consist of a great deal of fish, vegetables and rice, those of you who are tried-and- true lovers of greasy food will not starve. If sushi and sashimi are not your ticket, try tempura, tonkatsu, udon or ramen. If all else fails, there are plenty of McDonald’s, KFCs and Mr.Donuts. But first and foremost you must think of eating in Japan not as a mere necessity but as another part of the adventure. Remember that Japanese food is intrinsically linked to Japanese culture and it’s worth the effort to be able to identify and appreciate what you are eating. That said, here is a brief starters’ kit. The books can be found at Kinokuniya or Maruzen. If you do your homework before venturing out, you will save yourself a great deal of frustration and hunger, and you will be richly rewarded.
What’s What in Japanese Restaurants, by Robb Satterwhite. Published by Kodansha International. An invaluable book, appropriately titled. Small enough to tote around, it classifies restaurants by food type and gives vocabulary, explanations and sample menus. Around ¥1500.
Also recommended is Japan Travel Bureau’s Illustrated Eating in Japan for a general description of restaurant types.
If all else fails you can always point to the plastic food in the window, but that gets really old, really quickly. Eventually wean yourself of this type of book and become able to go into any restaurant and order freely. See the “Nara,” “Osaka,” etc. sections for a few recommended restaurants.
Common Types of Restaurants¶
Sukiyaki. Sukiyaki is often considered a luxury dish. Thin slices of meat and small pieces of vegetables are simmered in a large pan, family-style. Shabu-shabu is a variation which simmers the ingredients in a water stock and often includes mochi (pounded rice cake) and shirataki (noodle-shaped konnyaku (devil’s tongue)). These are the most common variations of nabe or “one-pot” dishes.
Sushi-ya. Sushi-ya can be identified by the half-curtain at the entrance with the restaurant’s name and “sushi” in Japanese somewhere on it. You can order individually at the counter if you’re brave, or grab a table and stick to a moriawase (preset assortment). There aren’t too many rules, so experiment. Look on the walls for a price list….remember the prices increase as you read from right to left.
Tonkatsu-ya. The introduction of the tonkatsu or pork cutlet may prove to be the demise of the next generation of Japanese children. If a fried slab of pork is your idea of a healthy meal, a Tonkatsu-ya is for you. The set meal (tei-shoku) is usually the best deal, with pickles, soup and rice included, but they also serve fried seafood, croquettes and a small salad.
Soba-ya and Udon-ya. These shops specialize in noodles – cold in the summer and hot in the winter. Soba is a buckwheat noodle and udon is made from wheat flour. These types of places might be good spots to point to the plastic food in the window as the names often differ from region to region.
Ramen-ya. Put on your MSG armor and head out for some ramen. Ramen-ya’s are most commonly found near train stations offering a quick bite to eat, and often the little stand-up shops offer the best taste and most volume. For a change, try “stamina ramen” with its loads of garlic. Tenri City is famous for its ramen. Ask around and see where people recommend.
Okonomiyaki-ya. Choose your favorite ingredients, like shrimp, onions, eggs, etc., and make your own Japanese-style-pizza-but-it’s-more-of-a-pancake on the grill at your table. Cheap, quick, and can easily be vegetarian.
Yakitori-ya. Yakitori is various chicken parts grilled on small wooden skewers. Yakitori-ya’s range from stand-up joints to informal sit-down places. You can identify them by the large red lantern outside. The easiest way to order for a beginner is just to say “yakitori, #-hon (bon/pon) o kudasai.” This will bring the standard chicken and leek yakitori.
Izaka-ya. Japanese pubs. Can be quite wonderful places. Look for a row of small red lanterns hanging outside. Most feature beer as the main attraction, but all kinds of food are available—yakitori, onigiri( rice balls), salads, sashimi, etc. Often you will be served a small appetizer with your first round of drinks and whether you want it or not, you got it and you’re payin’ for it!
In addition, there are tons of Chinese, lots of Italian, some Korean, a few Mexican and maybe some French restaurants around. They usually do a fair job, but remember the servings will be smaller than you’re used to. Try out Osaka and especially Kobe when you’ve had it with the local specialties.
Food Shopping¶
What an experience! At first glance, a Daiei looks just like a supermarket from home…then you look again and find that you have no earthly idea what all of this stuff is. If you are serious about cooking, you should carry the following book with you on all shopping expeditions :
A Guide to Food Buying in Japan, by Carolyn R. Krouse, published by Charles E. Tuttle Co. The survival guide if you are shopping and cooking for yourself. It gives romaji, kana and kanji so you can compare labels. Included are vocab lists and explanations for household supplies, traditional Japanese food, and foods we know and love. Around ¥1300.
Organic and Health Foods¶
You might have to make a bit of an effort to get to some of these places, but it’s worth it. There are two basic divisions of “clean” foods in Japan. The first is mu-nouyaku (lit. no pesticides). The second is yuuki-nogyo-houhou (organically grown). Just because something was not sprayed with pesticides does not mean that it was grown organically. There is still no method of public certification of organically grown foods in Japan, so be wary of false advertising. The following is a list of stores that carry “foods for the health conscious.” Some of these stores require membership.
Another great way to get fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables is at road-side stands. Usually these are small, unmanned stands (called mujin-hambai in Japanese) set up right next to the farmer’s fields. Ask about locations in your area.
Western Food¶
You can usually find Western foods in the basement food sections of department stores (see Kinki Shopping). There are also a few shops which specialize in foreign food. See the area sections for exact locations.
Kyoto: Meidiya, in the Kawaramachi area. From subway Sanjo Station, go west across the river and it’s on your right, before you get to the big intersection. Osaka: Many fun, but small, places around Namba. IMP Building at JR Loop Line near Osaka Jo Koen Stn. has a western arcade. Sony Plaza in Shinsaibashi and Umeda have a small selection of Western foods, mostly snacks. There’s a foreign food corner in the big Hankyuu department store in Umeda, under the stairs at the south end of the glamorous shopping hall. Kobe: Meidiya & Kobe Grocers.
General Tips¶
You will find a shocking selection of processed ready-to-eat foods such as ramen, donburi, and curry dishes. If you’re not sure about preparation, ask a teacher to translate directions or just experiment. Most stores will offer a generic brand which usually gives nutrition info on the package (kanji ID is found in the above book). If you can’t find something, just ask any of your Japanese friends—they are watching you anyway and have most likely already familiarized themselves with your shopping basket.
Cooking¶
If you are in to cooking, here are a few good cookbooks which provide a solid foundation in Japanese specialty home and vegetarian cooking:
The Quick and Easy Series (ha!), published by Joie Inc. Easy recipes designed for Japanese and Western kitchens. General Japanese cuisine, home cooking, tofu, sushi, etc. Around ¥2000 each.
The Joy of Japanese Cooking, by Kuwako Takahashi, published by Shufunotomo Co. A great volume which covers a lot with great color photos, sample menus and food shopping tips. Around ¥3800.
Quick and Easy Japanese Cooking for Everyone, by Miyoko Sakai and Motoko Abe, published by Japan Times. 77 short-cut recipes in a pocket-sized edition.
The Heart of Zen Cuisine, by Soei Yoneda, published by Kodansha. Fun, easy and healthy recipes. It has an amazing explanation of Japanese veggies. Organized by season, it offers interesting background info on each dish such as temple of origin and to who it may be served. Around ¥2300.
Japanese Cooking for Health and Fitness, by Kiyoko Konishi, published by Gakken. Basic recipes with a nifty appendix which contains nutritional info for many traditional Japanese foods. Around ¥2900.
The Book of Tofu, by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, published by Ballantine Books, New York. Everything you’d want to know about tofu and its by-products historically to nutritionally.
The Book of Miso, by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, published by Ballantine Books, New York. Just like The Book of Tofu, but about miso.
Remember that some special utensils may be needed, like a bamboo rolling mat, a drop-lid, etc. These are all available at small home-supply stores or in the department stores. See HOUSING/Appliances/In the Kitchen for more info.
Vegetarian Eating¶
Japan, like China, has a long tradition of vegetarianism. However, since the Meiji period it has been common to consume animal products. You never know where that slice of meat will turn up! The following is a series of suggestions for healthy vegetarian living in Japan. While it is extremely brief, keep in mind that AJET is planning on publishing a Vegetarian’s Guide to Japan this fall. Keep your eyes open for it.
In general, the easiest way for vegetarians to avoid animal products is to prepare their own foods. Soy products are everywhere–tofu, tonyu (soy milk), green soy beans, etc. One suggestion about tofu is to try a locally-produced tofu instead of your supermarket variety. Most communities have a local tofu shop. Due to the high turnover tofus found here will have less preservatives and additives than the mass-produced varieties. Nuts, however, are a different story. They are usually expensive and are not found everywhere. Almonds, the best source of protein for vegetarians, are particularly hard to find. Remember that almonds should be soaked overnight in water to make them more easily digestible.
Be careful during the cold winter months! Lack of fatty-acids normally found in meats often leads veggies to binge on sugars and fats. My personal advice is to eat more fish, particularly deep water fish like tuna, and more butter ( but not margarine, a completely artificial product with potentially harmful side-effects). These natural fat sources are much better for you than candy. However, there’s nothing wrong with the occasional Hershey bar (health-wise, that is).
Make your vegetarianism known from the beginning of your stay. Enkais (work-related parties) could become very complicated if you announce your vegetarianism at a yakiniku (Korean Bar-B-Que) joint. Don’t expect them to change the venue for you, but do expect that something will be available without meat. There should be absolutely no problems with your dietary habits; many schools have Buddhist clergy on their staff, and they too cannot eat meat.
Suggested Reading¶
A Guide to Food Buying in Japan Indispensable if you want to read the label on the side of the food package. You’d be surprised how many products contain animal stuff. The Book of Tofu A history and comprehensive listing of tofu and other soy products. You’ve probably never heard of most of them.
